Selati Walking Safari| Our Progression Of Safari

WATERBERG TO GREATER KRUGER

Joachim and Susanne have supported me and my endeavours since the early days of Tsala Trails. Over the years our safaris together have ranged from tracking antelope across the bushveld to searching for spiders, or at least keeping a careful eye out for the elusive baboon spiders they are always curious about.

In the prior year Joachim asked if we could plan another safari together. This time he wanted something particularly special, a journey that combined two landscapes he has come to appreciate deeply: the ancient Waterberg mountains and the wild Lowveld of Greater Kruger.

So we began planning.

After reviewing various options we decided to combine time at Laluka Safari Lodge in the Waterberg with a wilderness experience at Nkuwa Wilderness Camp in Selati Game Reserve. The journey began in Johannesburg, where Joachim and Susanne arrived together with their son Josh and his partner Katrin, who had already been travelling along the Garden Route in the Western Cape before joining the family there.

From Johannesburg they travelled north to the Waterberg, where I met them at Laluka.

Above image: Joachim and Koen with smiles at Laluka Safari Lodge, 6 May 2023

Above image: Left to right, Joachim's friend, Simon Eeman, Koen and Joachim after a very exhausting tracking session, not being able to stand much anymore, 22 February 2022.

THE WATERBERG LANDSCAPE

The Waterberg is one of South Africa’s most fascinating geological regions. Formed over 2.7 billion years ago, the sandstone massif rises above the surrounding bushveld and creates a landscape of dramatic cliffs, plateaus and valleys. These mountains have sheltered wildlife and human cultures for millennia, from early San hunter-gatherers to Iron Age communities.

Today the region forms part of the Waterberg Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO-recognised landscape known for its biodiversity and conservation initiatives. Its mixture of rocky ridges, open plains, dense bushveld and seasonal wetlands creates habitat for a wide variety of wildlife.

Welgevonden Game Reserve, where Laluka Safari Lodge is located, lies within this greater Waterberg landscape. Unlike many open systems, Welgevonden is a privately managed reserve known for its careful conservation management, limited vehicle numbers and excellent guiding opportunities.

When Joachim and Susanne arrived it felt very much like welcoming them back to a familiar place. Simon, Giulia and the Laluka team embraced them warmly. For Susanne in particular the Waterberg has become a meaningful place over the years.

For Josh and Katrin, however, this was their first safari experience.

Introducing someone to Africa for the first time is always special, but also challenging. Joachim and Susanne already know much about the bush, so part of the art was showing Josh and Katrin the wonders of the natural world without overwhelming them or repeating too much for those who already understood the rhythms of safari life.

We began with an introductory game drive followed by walks through the surrounding bushveld. February in the Waterberg is the season of new life. Many animals had recently given birth, and it was common to see young antelope suckling beside their mothers or attempting their first uncertain steps through the grass.

Tracking lions proved difficult during these first days. The summer rains had produced thick vegetation, and the dense sedges and grasses across Welgevonden made reading the ground challenging. Eventually, however, we managed to locate them during an afternoon drive. On the way to the sighting we were treated to the unexpected bonus of encountering cheetah moving through the open grasslands.

Perhaps the most memorable moment came while we were quietly walking through a block of tall Common Thatching Grass, searching for fresh lion tracks. Suddenly a group of zebra burst through the grass and ran almost directly into us. Only at the last moment did they realise we were standing there. They had been fleeing the lions and had not seen us at all.

Encounters like that remind you how alive the bushveld truly is.

That evening we celebrated Susanne’s birthday with a traditional braai at Laluka farm. It was a relaxed evening among friends. Simon and Giulia, whom Joachim and Susanne originally met years ago while on safari in Tanzania, joined us around the fire. It felt less like hosting guests and more like sharing a homecoming.

Above images: Explaining lion track quality by Koenraad. Following up with Lions in the Sand beds of the Selati river, difficult to see in the middle of the image. Followed by image of Koen, Katrien and Josh, observing the remains of Southern Foam Nesting Frogs, nest on a dried up pan.

NKUWA WILDERNESS CAMP – SELATI GAME RESERVE

After our time in the Waterberg we travelled east toward the Lowveld, where the landscape changes dramatically.

We collected Katharina at Hoedspruit Airport before entering Selati Game Reserve during yet another February heat wave.

Selati is a lesser-known private reserve located west of Kruger National Park near Gravelotte and Phalaborwa. Unlike some of the more heavily developed reserves in the region, Selati retains a raw, wild atmosphere. The reserve is dominated by granite hills, river systems and dense mopane and mixed bushveld vegetation.

The Selati River is the lifeline of the reserve, supporting elephants, predators and a wide variety of birdlife. Historically the area was influenced by early mining and railway routes during the late 19th century, but today conservation and low-impact tourism dominate the landscape.

When we arrived at Nkuwa Wilderness Camp it was wonderful to reconnect with Kyla and Lloyd. Lloyd had once been a student during my time working at Ulovane Environmental Training, so meeting again years later in the bush felt particularly meaningful. Seeing how both of us had developed in our respective journeys made the moment special.

The camp itself is simple and understated, but what attracted me most about this part of Selati are the beautiful granite outcrops and sprawling trees that define the landscape.

Once settled, we discovered that we essentially had the entire south-eastern section of the reserve to ourselves. That sense of space and solitude was refreshing. No traffic, no pressure, just the bush and our own vehicle.

For me, except for the intense heat, this is exactly how a wilderness experience should feel.

TRACKING LIONS AND A NIGHT UNDER THE STARS

Our stay in Selati was unfortunately short: three nights and four days. Arrival and departure days always disappear quickly, so the two days in between became our main opportunities to explore.

The February heat was relentless. Much of the day had to be spent resting in the shade near camp, beneath the large trees beside a small seasonal stream that had formed after the heavy Lowveld rains earlier in the year. Those rains had caused significant damage to roads and infrastructure across the region.

On our first full day we drove north toward the Selati River and set out on foot to track lions.

After some searching we managed to find them, a rewarding moment after carefully following their tracks through the sandy riverbeds. Later on our way back Joachim spotted elephants moving quietly through the bush between the river and our camp.

That evening we drove north again to Waxbill Koppie, where we planned a sleep-out under the stars. Just as we finished setting up our bedding on the hill, a group of elephants passed below us in the darkness.

Moments like that remind you how small you are in the African wilderness.

Unfortunately the night also brought another less romantic element: mosquitoes.

Within minutes we could hear them buzzing around us. Everyone except Susanne was thoroughly bitten. Katharina and I ended up sitting almost inside the fire, burning elephant dung to create smoke in an attempt to keep the mosquitoes away. Between the smoke and the bites we were hardly the picture of comfort.

Joachim, however, simply stayed where he was and endured it quietly beside Susanne.

Despite the insects it was a beautiful night. One of the things that struck me most was how dark the sky truly was. Around Hoedspruit and the central Lowveld, light pollution has unfortunately increased over the years. Finding places where the night sky still appears untouched is becoming rare.

That evening we listened to spotted hyena calling in the distance and the soft calls of nocturnal birds, especially the small scops owls nearby.

THE FINAL DAY IN SELATI

The following afternoon we attempted to drive east to locate a pride of lions that had been reported near a bend in the river.

The heavy rains earlier in the season had damaged many of the roads. Several routes ended in washed-out sections or deep mud, forcing us to turn around repeatedly. Time eventually ran out before we could reach the lions.

Still, the drive itself was rewarding. We encountered white rhino, elephants and a number of beautiful tree species that Joachim and Susanne had never properly been introduced to before, including jackalberry trees and nyala berry trees.

At one point Joachim even jumped out of the vehicle to guide me through a muddy section to avoid getting stuck.

Eventually, after several attempts to reach the lions, Joachim laughed and said to a frustrated Koenraad:

“Let’s just go home and have a drink at camp.”

And that is exactly what we did.

FAMILY, FIRST SAFARIS, AND QUIET MOMENTS

The next morning we departed early to reach Hoedspruit Airport, where Josh and Katrin caught their flight.

Later that day Katharina and I visited the Moholoholo shooting range where she practiced advanced rifle handling until sunset. That evening we joined Joachim and Susanne in Hoedspruit for a quiet Valentine’s Day dinner, which felt like the real farewell to the trip.

As I sat there tired but content, finishing my meal, I realised that what mattered most about this safari was not only the wildlife we had seen across two very different ecosystems.

It was something much more personal.

This was the first time Josh and Katrin had joined Joachim and Susanne on safari, celebrating Susanne’s birthday as a family. It was also the first Tsala Trails safari that Katharina and I guided together.

Watching the family dynamic unfold in the bush was deeply moving. Joachim, normally someone who enjoys careful planning and certain comforts, adapted effortlessly to the rougher conditions of Selati. He never once complained about the heat, the insects, or the simplicity of the camp. In fact, he was often the first one up in the morning, eager to help.

Susanne remained quietly observant as always, taking in the environment around her.

Josh and Katrin experienced Africa with the mixture of curiosity and uncertainty that comes with encountering such a new environment for the first time.

As I watched them together I was reminded of the young animals we had seen earlier in the Waterberg, families navigating the bushveld together during the season of new life.

It felt like witnessing something universal.

And somewhere in that moment I realised that, after many years of guiding Joachim and Susanne, I had quietly become part of their extended safari family as well.

Above image: Botswana Trip at Bains' Baobab, 16 December 2022.

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